Quick info
- Short climb up a rock tower adjacent to the Penyal face above the town of Cala Millor on the east coast
- One or two pitches / 40 meters
- 5b / 4b
- Trad protected / any fixed gear is old and worn (except a new anchor at the top)
- Walk off via the peak of the Na Penyal
General
On the east coast of the island, The Na Penyal hill close to Son Servera and Cala Millor stands only 210 meters tall but its unique and steep face with the adjacent small tower are a unique feature on this part of the island. This hill has some historical relevance as it played a role in the Battle of Mallorca early in the Spanish civil war. You can find several bunkers all over Na Penyal as a stark reminder of these unfortunate events.
Even though the feature to be climbed here is small and the route short, the setting above the touristy towns of Cala Millor and Sa Coma is special - so if one is in these parts anyways a visit makes for a worthwhile detour.
The short line we lay our sights on is the „Aresta Brucs“ (or Arista) on the North-East side of the small tower.
Besides the „Aresta Brucs“ there is a bolt aid climb through the overhanging main face with almost no gear and ratings up to A2 appropriately called „Directissima“. You might want to take this one on, too, if this is your bag!
Logistics
From the MA-4023 leading from Porto Cristo to Son Servera (and on to Capdepera) take the „Cami de na Penyal“ between the exits to Sa Coma and Cala Millor. Drive up a few hundred meters until the small road meets the former train line (which is converted into a greenway). Park somewhere along the road here.
As this is only a short climb and overall approach you might want to combine the „Aresta Brucs“ with either the aid line in the main wall or find the sport climbing crag on the other side of the hill or end the day with an afternoon on the sand beaches of Cala Millor or Sa Coma.
Approach and descent
From the parking spot walk up towards the restaurant Bellavista. The road will turn into a dirt track which you should follow for about 500 meters until you pass a small radar station and are right under the rock tower. Take a left turn and find your way pathless up to the base of the climb.
For the descent follow the scambly path along the spine connecting the tower to Na Penyal and scramble to the top in a few minutes. For the final walk down follow the clearly visible path leading along the main face and then down towards the restaurant.
Technical information
- One or two pitches.
- The total length of the climb is 40 meters.
- Trad protected with bolted belays and some old gear for intermediate protection.
- Gear: 50 meter single rope, 5-10 quick draws (depending on the number of pitches) cams for the crack sections, slings.
- North-East facing. Can be wet especially before noon.
- NOTE: There are new glue-ins bolts on the lower have of the climb as of early 2024.
Climbing and pitches
Fairly straight forward climbing following the most logical and easiest line.
The climb could easily be done in one pitch which however will lead to rope drag. The rock quality especially on the white rock is lacking. Take care!