Quick info
- A stunning rock tower in a fabulous location that can be climbed fairly easily in one long pitch.
- Very crumbly rock and therefore risky
- 1 pitch / 35 meters
- 4b
- No fixed gear except one expansion bolt right under the summit and a set of pitons on the top.
- Rappel of the single bolt and downclimb the last easy 5 meters (60m rope)
General
Mallorca has a number of interesting, beautiful and climbable rock spires of which some are described in this guide. Each of them does have its own charm like the length and alpine setting of Agulla Frare or the ease of access and sheer face of Agulla de Boquer, to name a few. What sets Penyal Bernat de s'Illeta apart is its near perfect appearance, the fact that it sits perched over the very chic town of Port de Soller - and that it is made out of rock that’s just barely holding together.
Even though the climb itself is short, the whole experience of making your way to the base, finding your personal line up, dealing with rubbish rock and finally making your way back down makes this a special little adventure.
Logistics
Drive towards Soller, on to Port de Soller and stay on the main road through the tunnel towards the northern part of the town.
You can find plenty of parking somewhere in the Carrer de Franca / Carrer de Belgica area.
Port de Soller has a nice harbor and beach area with a nice view over the bay with the many boats mooring there. There are tons of restaurants and bars here to choose from.
Approach and descent
From the parking, walk up the Carrer de Belgica until the first switchback. Continue on straight on a smaller road that winds up between a few houses and terrasses until a crossing with a sign pointing out the way to the old watchtower.
Do not follow the sign, but go right and continue on the track north-east. The track will turn towards the mountains and climb in a few switchbacks. The Penyal Bernat is clearly visible and you will pass under its very steep seaside face. After passing make a sharp right at a small house and follow a barely visible trail along the terrasses that leads into a wooded area and towards the Penyal. The last 200 meters are pathless through the wood and then up towards the rock spire via a short loose and vegetated canal a bit to the left.
For the descent either rappel off a single bolt in one 35 meter go (or 30 meters plus an easy 5 meters downclimb) and reverse the same route you took to get back.
Technical information
- Short, one pitch 35 meter climb.
- Trad protected. Only a single expansion bolt and pitons on top.
- This is a climb that is not done often and needs a bit of improvisation and boldness to deal with the rock quality and lack of gear.
- Gear: single 60 or 70 meter rope, 6 quickdraws, slings, possibly cams and nuts (there are very few good placings to be found however!).
- South-facing and exposed to winds.
Climbing and pitches
Easy climbing on very loose and untrustworthy rock. Good places for protection with slings can be found (less so for cams and nuts).