2023

A collection of 31 posts

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Agulla Forcada „El Bispe“ / Galatzo

Quick info * Very aesthetic rock tower in a beautiful mountainous setting. * 3 pitches / 105 meters * 5a / 5c / 4b * Trad protection / only some fixed gear at belays and rappel stations * Descent via rappel two short or one longer rappel * Additional variantes and routes on the same tower (up to 5 additional

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Penyal Bernat / Port de Soller

Quick info * A stunning rock tower in a fabulous location that can be climbed fairly easily in one long pitch. * Very crumbly rock and therefore risky * 1 pitch / 35 meters * 4b * No fixed gear except one expansion bolt right under the summit and a set of pitons on the top.

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Na Penyal Arista Brucs / Son Servera

Quick info * Short climb up a rock tower adjacent to the Penyal face above the town of Cala Millor on the east coast * One or two pitches / 40 meters * 5b / 4b * Trad protected / any fixed gear is old and worn (except a new anchor at the top) * Walk off via

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Cavall Bernat East Arete / Port de Pollenca

Quick info * An adventurous route in wild nature above the sea. * Wayfinding challenges on the approach and during the climbing. * 4 pitches / 185 meters * 3c / 4a / 3c / 3c * First three belays bolted, final belay needs to be built. All trad for intermediate protection. * Descent scramble and hike. General Forming the

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Cave: Cova des Genet / Porto Cristo

Quick info * Medium sized cave with many interesting rock formations * Entry by short rappel and exit by jugging * Easy approach hike that can be combined with visiting Cala Varques General Of the many bays of the Mallorcan east coasts Cala Varques (also spelled Cala Barques) might be one of the

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Scramble: Serra de Torrella traverse / Puig Major tunnel

Quick info * A long traverse with some technical sections high above the Soller valley * Needs rappel gear to stay on the ridge proper * Can be combined with an ascent of Penyal de Migdia General Looking up from the town of Soller and beyond the orange and olive groves the Serra

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Canyon: Torrent de Pareis

Quick info * An absolute classic hike with scramble bits * A truly impressive canyon with up to three hunderd meter high walls and bizarre rock formations * Fairly well known but still possible to enjoy in relative solitude General The Tramuntana mountains are home to many wild canyons formed by the millions

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Via La Comon on El Paredon / Puig Major

Quick info * One of the longest and most impressive lines in the island * Steep and technical climbing through the center of the Paredon wall on Puig Major * Long mildly technical scrambling descent or rappel * Fully bolted, but may need additional protection * 7 pitches / 280 meters * 6a / 5c / 5c / 5c / 6a+

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Cave: Cova Tancada / Port de Alcudia

Quick info * A large cave that can be reached via a hike and easy scramble * No technical gear needed * Fairly popular but definitely not overrun * The approach would be tricky in the rain General Among the caves of Mallorca the Cova Tancada holds a special place because of its sheer

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Scramble: Cavall Bernat traverse / Port de Pollenca

Quick info * A three kilometer long sharp ridge that falls off 300 meters into the sea * Sustained scrambling over several hours call for endurance and concentration * No technical gear needed General The Boquer valley, which is home to the Agulla de Boquer climb described in this guide, is formed by

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Scramble: Puig Major North East Ridge / Coll de Reis

Quick info * Long mix of hiking and scrambling to reach the actual summit of Puig Major right outside of the military base. * Out and back route. The military zone blocks the way for a circular route. * The main challenges are route finding and the length of the tour. * No technical

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Cave: Cova Mitjana / Canyamel

Quick info * Medium sized stunning cave with a technical entry and exit * Needs gear to rappel into the cave and jug back out * The entry is very close to the sea and can be inaccessible with high waves. * Naturally a good option on a rainy day General Mallorca has many

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Albahida / Sa Gubia

Quick info * THE classic multi-pitch line on the island that is very much worth doing. * A fairly long route on an impressive pillar that continues into a ridge scramble to the peak of Puig de Sa Gubia for a full day out. * Normally 7 Pitches (less or more are possible

Climbing

A wild line above the sea - Climbing the Cavall Bernat East Arete

Many visitors to Mallorca might know the Boquer valley as a great destination for hiking, climbers might even be aware of the boulders or the Agulla Boquer. However if you continue on out to the sea things get wild and a real alpine climb emerges.

vanlife

Benasque and the Aneto - The heart of the Pyrenees

This chapter of our ongoing exploration of the Iberian peninsula brought us into the central Pyrenees and the very heart of this range, the Benasque valley under the mighty Aneto.

Climbing

Pico de Aneto - A solo climb of the highest mountain in the Pyrenees in a day

During a cloudless and warm day in late September I took on the Aneto. Ascending via the classic, partly glaciated route and descending via what has become the new normal route. A long, arduous but at the same time beautiful and memorable day well spent.

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Espolon Aries / Penyal des Migdia

Quick Info * A wild line on the second highest mountain of Mallorca * Combines a 70 meter high chimney system with different possible starts below and exits above * Poor rock quality, difficult wayfinding and few good gear placements make this a dangerous and committing route * Variant described here: 9 pitches / 260

Mallorca Adventure Guide

Mallorca Adventure Guide: Introduction and contents

Mallorca. No doubt one of the top spring, autumn and even winter getaways for outdoor enthusiasts and climbers in particular. With dozens of well bolted sport climbing areas and all levels of difficulty, steady good weather and the beach close by many come here for an easy, low stakes climbing

Cycling

Re:Tour de Norddeutsche Tiefebene

As per usual, just visiting and meeting people is not enough for impatient me. So a quick plan was whipped up to ride a bike all over the landscape surrounding Hamburg and to cap everything off with the first public reading of a book I was involved in.

Cycling

Riding the Cayolle, Champ and Allos passes in the French Alps

After focussing on rock climbing in first part of our van tour June 2023 I made sure that the bike did not feel lonely in the second half - and a monster ride over three cols higher than 2.000m was just the thing to challenge bike and rider.

Climbing

Four multipitches and a sport crag

After getting rained out of the Dolomites we moved our little two van caravan into the Vall de Sarca in search of sunny weather and climbable rock - and the area delivered as promised.

Climbing

Climbing the South Arete of Sas de Stria in the Dolomites

Perched high above the surrounding valleys the Sas de Stria was one of the main battlefields of the alpine theater in World War I. Besides this dark history it is also a stunning mountain to climb and we chose to try our hands on the South Arete that leads all the way to the top.

Climbing

Sun, Rock and Churros: A Costa Blanca climbing trip

After last year's trip in the northern Alps we got the band back together to sample the lines and crags of the Alicante region in Spain and learned first hand why this region is so beloved by climbers! Perfect weather meets perfect rock and the Spanish vibe.

2023

The Via Ferrata of the Sierra de Callosa

The Costa Blanca north of Alicante is covered in endless rocks to climb. The Sierras to the South are much smaller but still some gems that can be found here. Case in point the Serra de Callosa that has several climbing areas and four Via Ferrata.

Climbing

Joy meets Fear on Penyal des Migdia

After a few successful longer climbs Toby and I set our sights on the Espolon Aries. A route that even though it needs to be protected with trad gear looked like a fairly chill outing: We could not have been more wrong!