Sun, Rock and Churros: A Costa Blanca climbing trip

Nine straight days of multi pitch and sport climbing in beautiful coastal Spain
In August of 2022 Julia, Buddel, Jochen and I had stationed ourselves in Rosenheim to tick off some classic (like the Kampenwand, Wildangerwandl or Staffelstein) and lesser known lines in the region. Naturally quickly the discussion started about where to go next and after vetting some really good options (that are now on the table for later trips) we decided on visiting Spain and the Alicante region specifically.

The plan was simple: Set up a base in Calpe for nine days and climb as much as possible. This time the team was one person short as Jochen could not join. So we met as a dynamic trio under the Spanish sun in May of 2023.

Day 1: Getting to know the Toix

Being quite eager to get things started we attacked the Via Horst (funny name, 5 pitches at IV) on the Sierra de Toix and after topping out around lunch time decided to continue by climbing a short two pitcher on the West face that brought us right to the top. Two climbs ticked and not done yet the day was finished off by traversing the exposed and stunning ridge to a walk off from the mountain. So we sort of did a Sierra de Toix Super Integral: Starting by the sea, climbing to the top in seven pitches and finishing on the ridge.

Day 2: Sport Climbing in Olta

Realizing that the first day's pace might not be sustainable over nine days, the second (quite hot) day was spent on the nice sport crag Olta high over Calpe. The day started on a short easy three pitch route and continued into a series of moderate sport climbs.

Day 3: A huge line on Cabezon de Oro

On this day Julia and I started early to tackle one of the routes I had marked as a „must do“. The semi equipped Via Gene makes its way through the west face of Cabezon de Oro (300 meters of climbing up to grade V/V+) in beautiful landscape. This climb was the most alpine of the trip and threw a few challenges towards us: Among them the general scariness of (partly) trad climbing and the five rappel „are we really on the right track“ descent. All in all a superb alpine adventure.

Day 4: Guadalest

The small fortified town of Guadalest is listed in every tourist guide of the region and also in any climbing guide. Sitting on top of a rocky plateau and surrounded by additional climbable walls, it's picture-perfect. First we climbed a four pitch affair that we pieced together from different routes on the wall. Pitch four was definitely the crux with a combination of scary trad and a fairly hard final on bolts. After taking a stroll and coffee in the picturesque town, the afternoon was aimed at sport climbing and taking photos that make us look cool.

Day 5: The mythical Magical Mystery Tour

Maybe the best known route in the whole region and something else indeed. The line starts by rappelling into a large cave maybe ten meters above the ocean, traverses for a few pitches and then takes a steep and fun line up for another two. With the different setting, the spectacular approach and the good climbing definitely a „must tick“!

Day 6: Another seacliff but BIGGER!

Six pitches, 170 meters and rated 6a+: These are the kind of stats that do allow for a bit of nervousness in my opinion. Still we braced ourselves and started early to tackle the Via Sonjannika on Cumbre del Sol. The approach down through a canyon that is partly protected by fixed ropes already sets the vibe of adventure and the climbing just ramped up this feeling more and more. Making good progress on the lower pitches and getting into the very exposed and harder upper part quickly the spirits were high but I still was not sure about that 6a+ crux pitch. But it came (was fairly hard) and went (so well actually that we decided to take the harder 6a final pitch variation). Another superb climb!

Day 7: Full trad in Vall de Guardar

Julia decided to take her rest day and so Buddel and I drove up to the Echo Valley to try our hands on the 4c Via Esther. After searching around for 45 minutes for the start of the route we finally noticed that we were at the wrong wall! Oh well - we hiked down to the right area and - oh wonder - the descriptions and topos started to make much more sense. Quite surprisingly the route itself was completely clean and we had to protect the pitches and build the belays with the little gear we had. Good training!

To cap off the day we went to Altea to have some Churros with four types of chocolate. No need to be too careful with calories on this trip!

Day 8: A grande finale

For our last day of multi pitches we had something special planend: To top out the Via Cilber and watch the sunset from the top of the Sierra de Toix. That meant however to start the climb in the late afternoon. So Julia and I took the time before lunch for a smash and grab mission of another five pitch line on the south west wall of the Toix.

After meeting up at the flat again we had a bite to eat and headed out again for the Via Cilber (185m V+). Maybe our little team was too well oiled and trained at this time but we topped out two hours before sunset! But trust me there are much worse places to hang around for some time than that perfect flat spot just up the top there!

Day 9: Epilog

Still not tired (enough) we went „just“ sport climbing on our last day in the region. The Peña Roja close to Lliber is a great area in a river bend with routes ranging from easy to very hard. And after raiding a local bakery we smashed out a few cool lines until the early afternoon.

So what’s more to say? Superb climbing with good people in a beautiful location. And no major screw ups along the way!

Adventurers: Julia, Buddel and Bengt

PS: Thanks for Julia and Buddel for the great company! And on to new adventures!