Rock Climbing Mallorca: Quan es fa fosc - Albahida variation (Sa Gubia)

This article is part of a series in which I am reviewing the local climbing spots on Mallorca from my beginner / intermediate climber point of view.
I have not found good technical information about this variation in English. So here it is!

The climb
This route replaces the middle part of the trad classic Albahida (a report on my first time on that route can be found here) on the main Sa Gubia pillar with three steeper bolted pitches further to the left.

The route starts right at the bottom of the pillar with some unreadable writing on the rock.

Pitch 1 is part of Albahida. Easy 3b climbing for 35 meters until a bolted belay in a big depression. There are trees, threads and other natural protections on the way.

Pitch 2 starts the Quan es fa fosc bit. Follow the bolts straight up from the belay for 30 meters of 5b climbing until you reach another small depression with a bolted belay and a small tree to the left. It might be a good idea to belay off the tree for comfort and as the next pitch goes further to the left.

Pitch 3 goes left and straight up (again about 5b). Some stiff moves until the first bolt and then sustained but a bit easier. Keep an eye out for the next bolted belay in a canal a bit to the left (another line of bolts leads into a large orange cave, however this is another line!).

Pitch 4 continues straight up. You will see a steep white wall above you. The bolts should lead you to a bolted belay right under and a bit to the right of the white wall. Similar difficulty to Pitch 2 and 3. This is the end of Quan es fa fosc.

Pitch 5 starts by traversing about 3 meters to a bolt to the right and the up. You are now moving back onto the Albahida route. A few more (now quite spaced bolts) lead on to easier ground. From here the pitches are less defined, however there is a good belay after about 30 meters in a canal on a tree and a thread. Good protection with slings etc. on all following pitches.

Pitch 6 follows the obvious line straight up until a belay on two already threaded rock tunnels. About 25 meters.

Pitch 7 continues up easily towards the rock tower. Try to aim a bit to the right and you will find a bolted belay, pass it and make your way right around a big block with a piton. Continue for another 15 meters until an overhand with a medium sized tree and a bolted belay. A long one!

Pitch 8 is short. Climb right „through“ the tree and up unto the ridge itself with a set of threaded chains and a few glued in bolts.

We reached the chains in 3 hours for reference. I would not recommend rappelling the route (if you do take two 60 meter ropes and just pray that they will not get stuck) but continuing into the ridge (another 30-45 minutes of scrambling) and to walk off.

Approach
The approach is described in this more general article on the crag.

The good, the bad and the ugly
A good variation of a classic route that does offer a bit more climbing challenges than the pure Albahida.
The route is partly shaded and the winds in the Sa Gubia valley can be quite strong (and cold). Communication between belays can be tricky in windy conditions.

More Information
Route Information on theCrag
The area is also described in RockFax Mallorca

For more information on this climb take a look at the Mallorca Adventure Guide!

PS: Special thanks to Julia for sharing this climb with me!