Rock Climbing Mallorca: Puig de Sant Marti (Alcudia)
Tl:Dr: A small crag with great rock and great views. The long routes are on weathered and sharp rock and mostly in the lower grades. Great for beginners or just a fun day out.
This article is part of a series in which I am reviewing the local climbing spots on Mallorca from my beginner / intermediate climber point of view.
The climbs
There are 19 climbs documented here and with six routes being either grade 3 or 4 and seven up to 5c this area has much on offer for beginners those looking for some nice and fairly easy climbing.
One unique feature (normally hard to find outside of the mountains proper) is the length of the routes (25 meters +) on the west face. Some of the long routes could also be topped out to the highest point of Puig Sant Marti making this area good to train multi pitch climbing.
In general the rock here is super sharp and grippy with sometimes giant holds.
The protection is mostly new and well placed. There have been reports of lower bolts gone missing but when we were there everything looked fine.
Approach
After leaving the main road you will have to drive up a dirt road (which never gets to gnarly). Either park at the crossing (recommended) from which the small winding road up the mountain starts and walk up (15min) or drive up that one until you reach a small parking spot.
The good, the bad and the ugly
In general the area feels like climbing in the higher Tramuntana but in a smaller package: The rock and the deep weathering scars are very similar to what can be found in the central mountains. Plus the approach is quicker than for most of the mountain crags.
The routes are fun and long and in combination with the great view towards the mountains and the bay this area is very much worth a visit.
A negative might be the small-ish number of routes and the fact that there is little in terms of hard ones (which is only a problem for those looking for 6b and up stuff).
The north and west facing walls get a lot of shade and are exposed to the wind making this crag more of a warm weather location.
More Information
Route Information on theCrag
Route Information on UKClimbing
The area is also described in RockFax Mallorca