Rock Climbing Mallorca: La Victoria (Alcudia)

This article is part of a series in which I am reviewing the local climbing spots on Mallorca from my beginner / intermediate climber point of view.

The climbs
The ten documented routes are scattered over a number of walls with most of them in the central section. There are also a few newer routes which are not documented as far as I can see. These are also much harder than the rest.

Most climbs are graded as 4 or low 5. However the grading feels a bit stiff - so be warned if you feel that a 5a is actually quite hard.

There are two unique routes here: One 4c (Carlos the Jackal) that can be climbed using finger / handjams (not often seen here on the island) and a 5a (Quiedro Diedro) with a nice layback section at the start.

Stay away from the 6a Dick Dastardly: There is a hold missing making the route harder and not fun at all.

The area seems to be quite old, the bolts are somewhat rusty and some hangers are a bit loose.

Approach
The crag is reached by simply following a large path from the parking of the Ermita de La Victoria for 15 minutes and turning left at the wooden handrail (You can not miss it). The cliff is to the right directly after the junction.

The good, the bad and the ugly
As the selection and quality of the routes is not great. Still I think visiting this area once for the unique routes makes sense. However there are better alternatives in that part of the island. For example Sa Font or Puig Sant Marti, especially if you have limited time.

After having a look at the newer routes I am curious if the area gets developed further though.

The spot is quite shaded and might be exposed to the wind as it is situated on a peninsula.

More Information
Route Information on theCrag
Route info on UKClimbing