Rock Climbing Mallorca: La Creveta (Formentor)

This article is part of a series in which I am reviewing the local climbing spots on Mallorca from my beginner / intermediate climber point of view.

The climbs
More than 40 routes with up to 30m length are on offer here. Difficulty ranges from (stiff) 4c to 7a/b. The climbing is mostly vertical and slabby on the easier routes with great high friction rock.

The protection is good but sometimes weird - there are a few routes that have bolts with rings as intermediate protection. Some routes share anchors or have neighboring anchors very close by allowing for top roping.

Note that some of  the climbs use the full length of a 60m rope to get back down.

Approach
After parking at the stunning viewpoint at Es Colomer you have to hike / scramble to a col (more info at the links below) and then down to the foot of the wall. This can be quite tricky and time consuming.

A good way to get back to the car is to end the session by climbing the route “Lord of the Rings” (4c) to belay your partner up. From there it's only maybe three meters of easy scrambling to the top of the wall. From there you can simply walk off - skipping the scrambling of the approach. It would also be possible to rappel here on the way to the crag.

The good, the bad and the ugly
Besides the great climbing the landscape might be the thing that speaks most for this crag. Hanging in a wall looking at Formentors rugged rock pillars and sheer drops is a treat!

The approach is tricky but can be made into part of the fun by using the “Lord of the Rings” solution. The parking spot at the viewpoint might be busy in season.

Naturally the crag is exposed to the wind especially if its blowing from the north / northwest direction. As you right above the sea it can blow a gale even if the east side of the island is relatively calm. The crag faces mostly westwards only gets direct sun in the late afternoon.

More Information
Route Information on theCrag
Route Information on UKClimbing
The area is also described in RockFax Mallorca