Rock Climbing Mallorca: Cala Mondragó (East Coast DWS)

This article is part of a series in which I am reviewing the local climbing spots on Mallorca from my beginner / intermediate climber point of view.

The climbs
When people talk about climbing on Mallorca deep water soloing (climbing above water without rope protection) might be the first thing that comes up, even though sport climbing and even alpine stuff are available here.

Some of the most famous DWS areas and climbs in the world are on the island. However many of the DWS areas are quite intimidating with potentially deep falls (15-20 meters) and mostly hard climbing on offer (for DWS to work you actually naturally need mostly overhanging routes).

So if you want to check out what the fuss is about the easy traverses at the Cala Mondrago might be a good call. You climb mainly horizontally above the water for more than a hundred meters without being more than 3-4 meters above the water. There are places with shallow water below, however these are clearly visible and the climbing above is easy. The rock is similar to the east coast sport crags I have described in other articles.

If you fall, prepare for a long swim to the beach if the waves are too high to get out.

Approach
Park on the official parking area for the Cala Mondrago. It is popular among tourists and locals alike so you will not have another option most of the year. Then walk out towards the beach. The climbs are found on both sides, however the better area is on the small peninsula to the left (looking out to sea).

The good, the bad and the ugly
A good place to try out DWS during a beach day at the Cala. And if you like it you can graduate to the “real” DWS crags.

The negative here might be the hordes of people frequenting this beautiful beach - but you will be one of them so complaining would not be fair.

Naturally you want to come here during when the water is warm enough to swim in - what that means is up to you. While climbing you might get baked on the southeast facing walls.

More Information
Route Information on theCrag
Route Information on UKClimbing