Rock Climbing Mallorca: Cala Llombards (East Coast)
Tl:Dr: Small crag with primarily hard overhanging routes with very short approach and a beach right next to it. Great for projecting.
This article is part of a series in which I am reviewing the local climbing spots on Mallorca from my beginner / intermediate climber point of view.
The climbs
There are only 13 routes in this area of which 11 are in a perfect clamshell like half-cave. The routes are short, powerful and bouldery.
Besides the two routes outside the cave all are grade 6b and higher and the two left of it are a very stiff 5c and 6a+. So this crag is not great for beginners.
The setting and type of routes makes it great to work on something that is right at your limit. There is joy in getting shut down and then figuring out a beta that allows you to do the climb!
The bolts are fairly close to each other but the positions to clip from are sometimes awkward.
Approach
Just park right at the beach of Cala Llombards and walk 3 minutes along a dirt road and up to the cave. This area rivals Tijuana (Cala Santanyi) in terms of ease of approach.
Having the beach right next to the crag is a great feature for a quick dip in the sea also.
The good, the bad and the ugly
Most importantly climbing is technical and fun here. The area has been bolted to be used for a climbing competition as far as I know and I feel that shows in the nature of the routes. The cave itself is almost too perfect for hard routes to be natural!
The only drawback I can see are the small number of routes and the fact that with more than two parties the area will be crowded.
The crag gets sun most of the day and it will definitely get hot.
More Information
Route Information on Foracorda.com