Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: South East Ridge (Sleepy Hollow) / Puig de ses Bruixes

Bengt

Aug 31, 2023 • 5 min read

Quick info

Very well protected climb on an unique little peak right in the middle of the island. One of the few multi pitch climbs outside of the Tramuntana.
5 Pitches / 150 meters
5c / 4c / 4b / 4b / 4a
Fully sport bolted
Walk off

Note: There have been reports of locals not being happy about people climbing this route and maybe it is on private property. Be aware of this and respect the locals wishes!

General

The Puig de ses Bruixes - the witches hill in Catalan - is a small (350 meter) peak close to the village of Randa right in the center of the island. Looking at it from the south its striking triangle silhouette and many ribs and deep cuts in between make it a memorable landmark.

Maybe it is this unique look that led to folk tales being spun about it. According to one local story it was home of witches that scared the local folk until Jaume the conqueror decided to take up the matter and priests put up a cross on the hill to banish the witches. Interestingly enough there is no cross up there today - so maybe the wise women have moved back in…

The route takes us right up one of the most prominent ribs of the south side and provides not only great climbing but also unique views over the south of Mallorca and as far as to the neighboring island of Cabrera. Is also special as one of the very few multi pitch climbs outside of the Tramuntana mountains.

Logistics

Coming either from the MA-15 motorway or south from Randa follow the sights towards Randa. At the intersection of MA-5010 and MA-5017 you will find a flat area to park on right next to the road. You could also park somewhere on the Cami des Puig, however there is very little space here and the approach is not significantly shorter.

Moving through the crux and packing for the walk off.

After the climb the small village of Randa does have a very nice bar right over the village parking lot with sun facing seating - perfect for an after-climb-coffee.

Approach and descent

From the parking at the road intersection pass the iron gate and follow the path slightly downhill (Cami Vell d´Algaida) with the side of the Puig de ses Bruixes in sight. Upon reaching the intersection head left and continue until the next possible right - continue there. Head on straight for quite a while (even though it feels like you are not heading to the mountain). Another right turn onto the Cami des Puig turns you back towards the mountain (now you can really see the different ribs leading up and forming the south side).

Follow the cami until a hiking path leads right. After only a few meters on the path leave it and move in parallel to the south side of Bruixes through vegetation. Keep an eye out for an obvious ramp and the first bolts. In total about 45 min.

For the descent follow the well trodden path along the spine of the Puig until an intersection in the path. Head right and downhill. You will reach a dirt track - turn right and after a few minutes you will come back to the Cami vell d´Algaida. About 30 min to the car.

Technical information

In this guide we have split the climb into five pitches. However the pitches could be made longer or shorter.
The total length of the climb is about 150 meters.
Good climb for beginners with reasonable difficulty and very good protection. In case of short pitches communication and line of sight between climbers is almost always possible.
All pitches are sport bolted (very close bolt distances). Additional belays that can be skipped are available.
Gear: 60 meter single rope, 10 quick draws.
South east facing. Very exposed to the sun.

Climbing and pitches

The route follows a clear rib in a series of steeper steps broken up by easier parts. Very good standing belays all the way up.

The pitches can be split up differently as there are additional belays. The five pitch version below works well but the climb could be done in more pitches as well.

The climbing can be done in 1,5 hours but can take longer if you decide to split it up into more pitches.

Pitch	Grade	Length	Description
1	5c	30	Start either directly via a short and steep crack (6a - bolted) or a bit further right up the low angled slab (4a - unbolted) to reach up to the first balcony (possible belay). Then move up the small chimney to the right (bolts from here out) and follow the ramp leading left. Make a few harder moves (crux of the whole route) onto the next balcony to find the belay under the next steeper section (two bolts with a long sling to a third one).
2	4c	35	Move directly up from the belay (a bit precarious until the first clip) and then up and left passing a belay. Follow the bolts until stepping on a rock outcropping with another belay. Step down the outcropping and over to the next section of slab (very photogenic - using the belay on the outcrop might be a good idea) and follow the bolts until the next bolted belay.
3	4b	25	Move out left and over a small overhang (a bit contrived - can be avoided when going a bit right). From here easy ground with another steeper step. Again a possible belay on the way and a good bolted belay at the end.
4	4b	30	Continue up the line of bolts through two steeper steps and pass a belay. Final stance under the last two steeper steps.
5	4a	30	Move up until the last rock bulge right at the top. No real belay here but a bomber bolt. Continue over easy ground to the actual peak for another 15 meters (no rope needed).

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