Four multipitches and a sport crag
After getting rained out of the Dolomites we moved our little two van caravan into the Vall de Sarca in search of sunny weather and climbable rock - and the area delivered as promised.
Exploring the multipitch lines and crags north of Arco in Italy
To be honest after getting into a hailstorm on the descent of Sass de Stria in the Dolomites and two days of constant rain our collective patience was spent and we drove the three hours over the Passo Gardena and south towards the promised land of sun, rock and pizza that is called the Val de Sarca. Wolf suggested setting up our basecamp in Pietramurata - a great idea, as that town is very central and much less busy than Arco itself.
The area around Arco is well known for its many sport climbing areas and well protected multipitch climbs. You can find climbs for any level of difficulty and length here: From single pitches to 400 meter monsters. Our aim was somewhat in the middle: five to ten pitches with difficulties up to 6a (French grading) - and a quick research turned up an abundance of riches.
The next days we got into a routine: Get up early, cycle to the selected multipitch line of the day, get back to the campground in the early afternoon and chill (and select the climb for the next day).
We climbed two lines on Piccolo Dain close to Sarche (The climbs start by the river and you can cycle right the start of of the lines. And the descent is an easy walk off). The two lines were the Via Moonbears (10 pitches with two crux pitches of solid 5c/6a) and the Via Amazonia (again 10 pitches with less constant difficulty but a crux very much at 6a/+).
For our visit to the wall atop of the famous San Paolo area (home to many of the hardest sport climbing Italy) we selected the Via dell Arco: A boltly named five pitch (6a) route. Turns out it does live up to its name with some very good pitches and a logical line up the very summit of the mountain.
Besides the climbs in the Val de Sarca proper we also sampled one in the neighboring Vall de Ledro called Super Ciccio. Not the best climbing but still five pitches in a great setting with views down to Lake Garda.
The other two days were spent sport climbing (in the area just north of the Toblino lake) and by riding bikes up the Monte Bondone, which sits inbetween the Val de Sarca and Trento.
In summary: This place does offer tons of good climbing with super easy access and quite stable weather much of the year. Its not very adventurous but if you are looking for some fun without being scared all the time and looking at weather reports every 10 minutes, this might be a good place for you.
Adventurers: Wolf and Bengt