Mallorca Adventure Guide

Multipitch: Espolon Aries / Penyal des Migdia

Bengt

Sep 6, 2023 • 5 min read

Quick Info

A wild line on the second highest mountain of Mallorca
Combines a 70 meter high chimney system with different possible starts below and exits above
Poor rock quality, difficult wayfinding and few good gear placements make this a dangerous and committing route
Variant described here: 9 pitches / 260 meters
4c / 4c / 5b / 5a / 5a / 5b / 4c / 4b / 4a

General

The Penyal des Migdia is the second highest peak on the island and its massive south-west face dominates the view up into the mountains from Soller. On the far left end the sea of rock of the face is broken up by a deep vertical scar that draws the eye. At least the eye of Adolfo Gregorio who opened up the line Espolon Aries in the mid 70s that makes use of this feature.

Calling this a single line is not fully correct as there are several options on how to reach the base of the chimney system and how to exit from it to the top. All variants however have the alpine character that combines a wild setting with very dodgy rock, no fixed gear and difficult wayfinding.

In this guide the leftmost start of the route and the left hand exit will be described.

A different angle showing the massive Migdia and the big chimney that forms the central part of the route.

Logistics

Park your car a few hundred meters before the Puig Major tunnel on the Soller side (Ma-10 Road).

Approach and descent

Start the approach by walking on the road for about 400 meters until you reach the Cami dels Cingles that starts going up to the right. Follow this Cami until you reach a gate. Pass the gate and take the right hand path until the second switchback. Here continue straight onto a steep grassy slope with a dry stone wall leading up to the base of Penyal des Migdia. Make your way up the slope with the wall to your right until you reach the base of the wall. Cross the wall and find the start of the climb.

The long hike/scramble after topping out should not be underestimated!

After reaching the end of the route hike / scramble towards the east and the actual summit of Penyal de Migdia. Right before the higher summit you can see the bend in the military road below. A series of cairns will lead the way steeply downwards to the south and towards the military road. Once the road is reached go down to the switchback and the col between the Serra de Torella and Penyal des Migdia. From here the hiking trail down the Coma de n‘Arbona leads back to the parking spot.

Left: One possible start of the route; Right: the balcony under the main chimney.

Technical information

Trad line with virtually no fixed gear.
9 to 11 pitches depending on the selected variant and length of pitches.
Difficulty up to 5b
Gear: 60 meter single or double ropes, slings, a fairly complete set of cams (even Camalot numbers 3 and 4 are handy) and nuts.
Gear placement is difficult and much the climbing has to be categorized as „falling is not an option without risking serious injury or worse.“
Mostly western aspect and very exposed to wind. The chimney can be wet even after a fairly long dry stretch.

Left: Wild climbing up the chimney; Right: the final summit blocks.

Climbing and pitches

The rock quality is very poor except in the chimney section and there are few (solid) gear placements.

Overall the climbing difficulty is moderate but the rock and lack of protection makes this a dangerous route.

Plan for six to eight hours on the wall. Rappelling is no option due to the meandering nature of the route - so after pitch 2 you are committed.

Pitch	Grade	Length	Description
1	4c	20	Start about 15 meters right of the dry stone wall under a burned tree. Climb straight up the tree (very rotten) and continue on over vegetated poor rock to a small scoop. A blue marking points to the right. You can either go right here or continue straight up for pitch 2 of this description.
2	4c	40	Step slightly to the left and start going straight up towards a tree in the canal. Make some dicey moves to past the tree and continue in the narrowing canal (good placement for number 2 Camalot about 5 meters over the tree on the right hand side. Move slightly leftwards towards a diagonal crack that leads you under a steeper section. Belay can be built with slings on a large choke stone.
3	5b	35	Go up straight and look for a tree higher up and right. Climb towards this tree over a series of overhangs and set up a belay there (sling around the tree and straddling it).
4	5a	30	Step out to the right and make a few harder moves up the small wall (two lobs of a Camalot number 1 can be put into the crack 2/3s up the steep section). After reaching the ledge on top traverse right around the corner - you will see the large chimney system now. Find a belay spot under the chimney.
5	5a	30	Make your way about 2/3s up the chimney and find a belay spot. The climbing does feel solid and save but there are very few places for gear.
6	5b	30	Further up the chimney and to the right under the roof above it until you find the only fixed belay of the route consisting of two pitons and a sling.
7	4c	20	Climb out from under the roof to the right. Keep this pitch short due to rope drag. A good belay can be build on a solid tufa.
8	4b	30	Head straight up and then aim towards the left until you see a large cave. Traverse under the cave until you reach a corner and a good horizontal crack to build your belay.
9	4a	20	Up the final corner and through broken blocks until you reach the summit.

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