Multipitch: Agulla de Boquer (La Directa) / Port de Pollenca

Quick info

Short approach and route with great views on very solid rock.
3 pitches / 70 meters
5c / 4c / 4c
Sport bolted / Possible missing bolts on pitch 1
Descent via rappel only

General

The Boquer valley is formed by the impressive Cavall de Bernat ridge and the Serra d´Albercutx which both protrude into the sea towards the North-East. The valley is close to the tourist hotspot of Port de Pollenca and visited by many people who enjoy the easy hike to the Cala de Boquer with its views of the ridges, the sea and the local population of goats (who seem to be totally unimpressed by humans). Be prepared to be a spectacle while you climb and feature on many vacation photos.

The Agulla de Boquer - the Boquer spire - is part of the Serra d´Albercutx and jumps into view as soon as one walks into the valley. A about 70 meter high slightly angled slab of rock that tops out above the Serra in a small and razor sharp edge. It towers over the green valley that has been used for archiculture since ancient times and has been the place of a Roman settlement.

Left: On the fairly thin slab of pitch 3. Middle: Making it up pitch 2. Right: Leading the crux of the route.

This spire is not climbed often but had a short lived spot in the light when Fernando Simón, one of the main advisors to the Spanish government during the Covid 19 crisis, climbed it with the brothers Pou, two of the most well known climbers in Spain.

After the climb you might want to take the nice 30 minute walk down to the Boquer beach at the end of the valley.

Logistics

To reach this climb either park the car right at the ring road of Port de Pollenca (leading further on the Formentor peninsula) close to the start of the approach hike (marked on the map) or somewhere in town.

Parking downtown might be a good idea if you plan to visit the promenade and harbor area later for a coffee or maybe a nice lunch in the sun. The waterfront area is quite touristy but still worth a stroll.

Approach and descent

From the main parking area start hiking up towards the Finca de Boquer building sitting at the entrance of the valley. If you look closely the very top of the Agulla de Boquer can be seen peeking out over the Serra. After passing the Finca and its two iron gates (make sure to close them behind you because of the goats!) walk on the well trodden path towards the set of big boulders (which host some sport climbs as well).

About 50 meters after passing (15-20 min of walking until this point) through the boulders you are standing right under the Agulla. From here make a sharp turn right and start the scramble steeply up to the base of the climb. The route leads right through the middle of the prominent face angled towards the valley floor and starts at the left of the base.

Do not get discouraged on the approach. You will need to pick your way through the boulders and bushes.

There is no clear path and you need to just make your way through the vegetation and around the boulders. There are some clues of people (or goats) having made their way up there - try to look out for these.

After 10-15 minutes you should reach the base with a small overhang at the very start and a prominent vertical crack above. You should see the first bolts of the route starting at the very left of the base.

Getting back down is the reverse of the approach. You will need to make three rappels with a single 60 meter rope or one single rappel with two 60s and then make your way through the vegetation back down the main path.

The view up to the Boquer spire and the surrounding rocks.

Technical information

The climb is separated into three pitches totaling 70 meters of climbing.
All pitches are sport bolted (expansion bolts with a bit of rust on them). The bolts are quite spaced and some might have missing hangers (especially on pitch one). The missing hangers can be replaced with girth hitched slings.
Gear: 60 meter single rope, 10 quickdraws, short slings (for bolt replacement), possibly small cams (or nuts) to improve protection on pitch 1.
North west facing and exposed to wind. Make sure to bring windproof clothing in the colder months.

Climbing and pitches

The spire is a very good example of Tramuntana rock: sharp edged limestone with very good grip. You will mostly encounter medium angled friction slab climbing with okay hand holds. The whole climb takes about 1.5 hours.

Pitch	Grade	Length	Description
1	5c	15	Start direct (hard) or by stepping out left towards the bushes to get over the small overhang. Move to the right (climbing two bolts) and then up the clearly visible crack (one of the bolts might be missing a hanger and the crack takes small cams). As soon as you reach a piton (clip for good measure) move out the crack to the right and aim for the right side of a small bush above you. As the angle eases you will reach the first belay: Three bolts (half hanging).
2	4c	25	Move straight up following a line of bolts towards a steep step. Bypass the step by moving right and making a few stiff slab moves to get back into the original straight line. Continue up the slab until the second bolted belay (half hanging).
3	4c	25	Straight forward pitch following the bolts visible above. Some of the moves in the middle part of the pitch might be psychologically challenging if you are not used to slab climbing. The final belay is right at the very top of the spire (half hanging). Make sure to move the last two meters right from the belay to the very top for hero pics!

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