180 meters of trad climbing on questionable rock earned by a scrambly approach and descent
The Boquer valley has been a playground for myself and others several times: From solo traversing the Cavall Bernat ridge during lockdown to climbing the Boquer spire several times with different groups of friends this area has brought me much joy - and after spotting a few hints at a fairly easy line leading up the East Arete (the very outer edge of the Serra protruding out to the sea) this was the next goal.

With Jochen (who has been mentioned on this site already a few times) visiting for a few days, the chance to give the East Arete a try was there. Knowing almost nothing about the logistics and the climbing itself we set out for our little adventure.

The first challenge was finding the start of the line but after about an 1.5 hours of hiking, scrambling, wayfinding and discussion we reached the outer edge of the Serra. And from here there was only one way: up!

I had read that the belays were supposed to be bolted. So I set off on pitch one keeping an eye out for any metal blinking in the sun and was lucky to find it after about 30 meters (3c).  The second pitch continued right on the arete for 50 meters (4a-ish) with just a few harder moves at the end. However the poor rock quality became apparent here: With several handholds flying off into the void.

Jochen hero shot gallery :-)

Having settled into the rock and having figured out the wayfinding rule for this route (just keep on the arete - and close to the steep drop to the right) pitches 3 (50m, 3c) and 4 (55m, 3c) went by without a hitch.

We topped out about 10 meters under the top of the ridge and made our way along it until we reached the normal route up unto the Cavall Bernat. Another 1.5 hours of now first scrambling and then hiking brought us back down and to the car.

Even in October the sun was baking us higher up.

So even if the climbing never gets difficult the whole setting, approach and rock quality makes this a pure alpine adventure that takes you far out of the normal Mallorca bolted sport climbing world into the wild.

The beach goers were looking at us funny coming down the mountain. The goats just always look funny.

Adventurers: Jochen and Bengt

Note: This route is featured in the Mallorca Adventure Guide (as soon as its done).